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Understanding Fabrics

Posted on September 13, 2024

When purchasing a new garment, it’s important to consider more than just style, fit, color, and price. Serviceability is a key factor as well. Below are some common fabric concerns that you should keep in mind when selecting your wardrobe.

Stretching

Knits and open weave garments are prone to stretching, and this is generally irreversible. Acrylic fibers are more susceptible to stretching than wool, making wool knits a better investment. To prevent stretching, knits should be folded when not in use, as hanging them can cause the fabric to stretch.

Surface Prints

Some fabrics feature patterns, designs, or colors that are merely painted on or glued to the surface. These surface prints can be damaged or even lost with the gentlest washing or drycleaning. To check if a fabric has a surface print, look to see if the design fully penetrates the material. If it doesn’t, it may not be durable enough to last.

Cotton Knits

Cotton knits are favored for their comfort, wrinkle resistance, and stylish drape, but they often lack stability. Due to loose knit construction and improper pre-shrinking, cotton knits may stretch, distort, or shrink. While drycleaning can be effective, soil is sometimes difficult to remove due to the absorptive nature of cotton. Ensure cotton knits are dimensionally stable if they need to withstand wetcleaning.

Shrinkage

Shrinkage can occur if a fabric hasn’t been pre-shrunk or if it was stretched to get more yardage during production. Soft woolens, angora, drapery, upholstery fabrics, leather, and suede are all prone to shrinkage. It’s best to avoid purchasing garments that "just fit" to prevent shrinkage issues later on.

Pure Silk

Silk is a delicate fabric prone to issues like chafing, splitting, and shredding during normal wear, especially with lightweight or form-fitting garments. Silk is also susceptible to dye bleeding during wear or drycleaning, and perspiration can further degrade the fabric. Additionally, perfumes and deodorants can adversely affect the color of silk.

Imitation Leather

Imitation leather made from vinyl should never be dry-cleaned, as it can crack or peel. Imitation suede is dry-cleanable if it is made from high-quality polyurethane. If not, it may peel or pucker. Flocked imitation suedes, where fibers are glued to a base fabric, may lose fibers through normal wear or cleaning, leading to bald areas. Many imitation leather and suede products are complex and may only be dry-cleaned at the owner’s risk.

Metallics (Lame)

When bringing metallic garments for cleaning, be sure to inform the staff about any stains. Some stains, like those from sugary beverages, may not become visible until after cleaning. Knowing the origin of the stain can help with successful removal. Also, the longer a stain sets, the harder it becomes to remove.

Velvet

Velvet is a popular fabric for cocktail or evening wear, but it’s prone to flattening or distortion, particularly in areas like the seat and underarms. Acetate pile velvet is the least durable, while cotton, rayon, and polyester velvets are more resistant to flattening. Never attempt to remove stains from velvet at home, as this can cause permanent damage to the fabric's pile.

Fading

Fading happens gradually when fabrics are exposed to sunlight or artificial light and often isn’t noticeable until after cleaning or washing. Silks, acetate, leather, and suede are especially prone to color loss or discoloration. Fume fading, which occurs in closets or on store racks, is another cause of gradual color loss.

Trim and Ornamentation

Posted on September 10, 2024

Many of today’s fashions include decorative trim and ornamentation. While some of the materials used are durable, many are not. Click on an option below to learn more about different types of trim and ornamentation.

Sequins

Sequins are shiny, circular discs applied to garments to enhance their appeal. However, sequins can pose several challenges, depending on the material and how they are attached to the garment:

  • Many sequins have colored coatings that are only applied with an adhesive. This adhesive can dissolve during the drycleaning process, causing the color to be removed and the dye to transfer to other parts of the garment.
  • Some sequins are made from gelatinous material, which can cloud, melt, or curl when exposed to heat from pressing or sunlight. Plastic sequins may dissolve completely in drycleaning solvents.
  • Sequins are often attached to garments with chain stitches, which can unravel if the stitch is broken. Some sequins are glued on, and they may fall off due to friction or if the glue dissolves during cleaning.

Buttons

While most buttons are durable during the cleaning process, some types should be avoided:

  • Some buttons are made from polystyrene, which dissolves in drycleaning solvents. It’s a good idea to ask the salesperson about the buttons’ resistance to drycleaning.
  • Some button materials react poorly to certain dyes, causing the dye to bleed onto the garment when exposed to moisture. This often happens during normal wear or pressing and may cause permanent stains.
  • Buttons with diamond-shaped glass inserts are often glued into place. This glue may dissolve during drycleaning, leading to the loss of the inserts.

Shoulder Pads

Shoulder pads are a popular fashion feature, but they can present issues for consumers and drycleaners:

  • Improperly manufactured shoulder pads can break down, distort, or shrink during the cleaning process.
  • Some shoulder pads are poorly fitted to the garment and may become unusable after just one cleaning or washing.

Leather

Leather is often used as a fashionable trimming on garments such as jackets, sweaters, and dresses. While most manufacturers take care to use durable leather, problems can still occur:

  • Dark leather trimming on light fabrics may bleed during wear or cleaning. This can be a persistent issue, even if the garment has a drycleaning label.
  • Leather-covered buttons or buckles on raincoats can lose dye and break due to friction or during drycleaning. This typically occurs when inferior leather is used, causing the leather to crack and lose color.

Beads & Glitter

Beads and glitter can enhance the appearance of garments but come with their own set of challenges:

  • Beads are commonly made from glass, but some are made from materials like plastic or wood. Plastic beads may dissolve, and wooden beads may crack, with their dye transferring to the fabric during cleaning.
  • Glitter, or "cracked ice," consists of small, randomly cut pieces of metal, glass, or plastic. Glitter is usually glued to the fabric, but it may detach during normal wear or drycleaning when the adhesive dissolves.
  • Mini mirrors are often made of clear plastic with a silver coating. The adhesive used for the coating can dissolve in drycleaning, causing the mirror effect to be lost.

Do’s and Don’ts for Fabric Care

Posted on September 6, 2024

The goal of fabric care is to clean and restore garments so they look fresh and new. The process of fabric care can be broken down into two primary stages: soil removal and finishing. Soil removal is typically achieved by immersing the soiled fabric in water or a solvent to dissolve or flush out dirt and grime. Mechanical action, along with detergents, also assists in soil removal. When cleaning with solvents, it’s referred to as dry cleaning, while cleaning with water is called laundering or wet cleaning. Laundering usually describes machine washing, either at home or commercially, whereas wet cleaning refers to professional hand washing of garments.

Do's:

  • Keep garment tags: Save the hanging tags that come with new clothes. These tags contain useful care instructions that you should follow or share with your dry cleaner.
  • Brush clothes regularly: Brushing garments often helps to keep them clean and free from dust and dirt.
  • Dry damp clothes properly: Before placing damp or rain-soaked clothes in a closet, dry them in a cool, well-ventilated area to avoid mildew or musty smells.
  • Dry clean regularly: Regular cleaning helps prolong the life of a garment by removing perspiration, grease, dust, and other particles that can wear down the fabric.
  • Address stains immediately: Take stained clothes to the dry cleaner as soon as possible. The longer stains are exposed to air, light, and heat, the harder they become to remove.
  • Inform your dry cleaner about stains: Let your dry cleaner know what caused the stain. This information is crucial for effective stain removal.

Don'ts:

  • Avoid ironing stained garments: Heat from ironing can set a stain permanently into the fabric, making it almost impossible to remove.
  • Don't hang knit garments: Hanging knits causes them to stretch and lose shape, leading to sagging hemlines. Fold them over a padded hanger or store them in a drawer instead.
  • Skip home stain removers: Using home remedies, even tested ones, can make fabric damage worse or cause color loss. It's better to leave the task to professional cleaners.
  • Don’t use nail polish remover: Applying nail polish remover to a garment can damage its dye, and if it’s made of acetate, the remover can even create a hole in the fabric.
  • Avoid storing uncleaned garments: Before putting clothes into storage, ensure they’ve been cleaned and moth-proofed. Use cool, dry storage areas, like cedar chests or boxes, to preserve your garments.

The Art of Dry Cleaning

Posted on September 3, 2024

Dry cleaning is a method of cleaning clothes and textiles using a solvent other than water. Despite the name, garments are still immersed in a liquid solvent, most commonly perchloroethylene (commonly called “perc”).

Dry cleaning is particularly effective for delicate fabrics like silk, wool, and certain synthetics that can degrade in water. It is also a preferred method for stain removal without the risk of shrinking or color bleeding.

Benefits of Professional Dry Cleaning

Posted on September 1, 2024

When you choose professional dry cleaning, you are protecting the quality and lifespan of your garments. Professional cleaners know how to handle delicate fabrics, tough stains, and special treatments for different clothing types.

  • Better stain removal
  • Fabric care for delicate items
  • Prevents shrinking and fading