When purchasing a new garment, it’s important to consider more than just style, fit, color, and price. Serviceability is a key factor as well. Below are some common fabric concerns that you should keep in mind when selecting your wardrobe.
Stretching
Knits and open weave garments are prone to stretching, and this is generally irreversible. Acrylic fibers are more susceptible to stretching than wool, making wool knits a better investment. To prevent stretching, knits should be folded when not in use, as hanging them can cause the fabric to stretch.
Surface Prints
Some fabrics feature patterns, designs, or colors that are merely painted on or glued to the surface. These surface prints can be damaged or even lost with the gentlest washing or drycleaning. To check if a fabric has a surface print, look to see if the design fully penetrates the material. If it doesn’t, it may not be durable enough to last.
Cotton Knits
Cotton knits are favored for their comfort, wrinkle resistance, and stylish drape, but they often lack stability. Due to loose knit construction and improper pre-shrinking, cotton knits may stretch, distort, or shrink. While drycleaning can be effective, soil is sometimes difficult to remove due to the absorptive nature of cotton. Ensure cotton knits are dimensionally stable if they need to withstand wetcleaning.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage can occur if a fabric hasn’t been pre-shrunk or if it was stretched to get more yardage during production. Soft woolens, angora, drapery, upholstery fabrics, leather, and suede are all prone to shrinkage. It’s best to avoid purchasing garments that "just fit" to prevent shrinkage issues later on.
Pure Silk
Silk is a delicate fabric prone to issues like chafing, splitting, and shredding during normal wear, especially with lightweight or form-fitting garments. Silk is also susceptible to dye bleeding during wear or drycleaning, and perspiration can further degrade the fabric. Additionally, perfumes and deodorants can adversely affect the color of silk.
Imitation Leather
Imitation leather made from vinyl should never be dry-cleaned, as it can crack or peel. Imitation suede is dry-cleanable if it is made from high-quality polyurethane. If not, it may peel or pucker. Flocked imitation suedes, where fibers are glued to a base fabric, may lose fibers through normal wear or cleaning, leading to bald areas. Many imitation leather and suede products are complex and may only be dry-cleaned at the owner’s risk.
Metallics (Lame)
When bringing metallic garments for cleaning, be sure to inform the staff about any stains. Some stains, like those from sugary beverages, may not become visible until after cleaning. Knowing the origin of the stain can help with successful removal. Also, the longer a stain sets, the harder it becomes to remove.
Velvet
Velvet is a popular fabric for cocktail or evening wear, but it’s prone to flattening or distortion, particularly in areas like the seat and underarms. Acetate pile velvet is the least durable, while cotton, rayon, and polyester velvets are more resistant to flattening. Never attempt to remove stains from velvet at home, as this can cause permanent damage to the fabric's pile.
Fading
Fading happens gradually when fabrics are exposed to sunlight or artificial light and often isn’t noticeable until after cleaning or washing. Silks, acetate, leather, and suede are especially prone to color loss or discoloration. Fume fading, which occurs in closets or on store racks, is another cause of gradual color loss.